Buy Vision, Safety & Misc Interior/Exterior Parts online from NAPA Auto Parts Stores. Get deals on automotive parts, truck parts and more. ACCESSORIES Balkamp Car Freshner Cequent C.I.L./Evan Dickies Flag Fire Hopkins Mallory Mechanix Wear Mibro NAPA Accessories Rayovac Scepter Superex UltraCraft BATTERIES NAPA BEARINGS NAPA BODYSHOP & PAINT 3M Airmax Arslan. The Model T from the World Wide Web. This resource would not have been possible without the help of countless folks throughout the Internet. Not just T owners, but mechanical sites and others as well. Porsche 9. 11 Motor Rebuild Overview . There are some points in here that are specific only to the 3. L and CIS cars other engines may require slightly different procedures. Be sure to refer to the factory manuals for more information. Using a general- purpose one can both be dangerous (especially if you're trying to support a full- weight Turbo motor, and it may damage your case. There are complete volumes of Factory manuals on this subject as well as a multitude of books and other written material that cover the specifics of engine rebuilding. This article is simply a collection of my own personal experiences and tips meant to aid in understanding various aspects of a rebuild. It is my hope that this article will become one of many tools used by the determined DIY'er as he/she prepares to rebuild a 9. I am going to assume that the decision has been made that the motor in question is in need of a total rebuild. In my mind, the first thing to do is to collect as many 9. There are many good books available including Bruce Anderson's . Reading books will only get you so far. I found that it was almost impossible to completely understand how some things worked until I actually had the pieces in my hands. If you aren't scared away from what you have read in all those books you bought than it is time to start gathering the proper tools that will be needed to remove, teardown, and reassemble the motor. I am going to assume that the person attempting to rebuild his/her motor is at least a competent weekend mechanic with a good workspace and common hand tools. This includes, above all things, a quality Rebuild kit (available from Pelican). Don't go the cheap route on this; you'll need a good kit. Plus, you need to be aware there will inevitably be many parts that will need to be replaced and that some of these things you will not be aware of until you have cleaned and inspected the parts. Trust me. Teardown. Once the engine is out of the car (hopefully via . Before you can fit the engine to a stand, you will most likely have to remove the clutch and flywheel. Removal of these components are covered in Pelican Parts Tech Article on Clutch Replacement. You can buy the Factory Engine stand (very expensive) or get a generic engine stand from your local NAPA store and modify it to fit the studs on your engine. I managed to modify a cheap $7. With a bit of imagination it is possible. I was lucky enough to have access to an engine hoist, which I used to lift the motor off the floor and onto the stand. I found it much easier to mount the face of the engine stand to the motor then lift the engine up with the hoist and slip the yoke into the stand. If you get this far in one day it's time to stand back and drink a beer. Now that you have the motor on a stand it's time to get started with the real fun stuff. Have a collection of assorted size Ziploc bags and boxes of all shapes and sizes in a holding pattern next to your work area. I suggest using a small notepad and disposable camera for taking notes and photographing pieces and parts as they are removed. Be absolutely sure to group, label and separate all parts removed. Personal Note #2 One thing most books don't mention is the fact that when you receive your new Rebuild kit, it comes as a box full of gaskets, o- rings, washers, seals, chains, piston rings and other misc. On the one I bought, nothing was labeled. Manufacturer s Defect Warranty. What Does This Warranty Cover? Customer satisfaction is our top priority. This warranty covers any product that is purchased from us ( Product) which fails due to a defect. Welcome to the The Garage Journal Board forums. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have. It is not fun trying to figure out where two- dozen different sized o- rings go to unless you saved the old o- rings as you removed the parts. So, my suggestion is to keep all of the old gaskets, o- rings and other seals with the parts as you remove them. That way, when it comes to reassembly, you can take an old o- ring and dig through the rebuild kit until you find it's new counterpart. If I had thought of this ahead of time, it would have saved me a lot of trouble. The first thing to come off will be the induction system. Whether it be Carburetors, MFI, CIS, or DME, they all basically come off the same way. The intake ports on each cylinder have two 1. Some of these nuts were almost impossible to get at with a wrench! On my SC, there were a few that required some pretty ridiculous combinations of drive extenders and universal attachments as well as stubby open- ended wrenches. Best advice I can give you is: . I removed the entire fuel system from the motor as one unit. I unbolted the intake runners, disconnected and marked all fuel lines and wiring harnesses and pulled it off. The removal of the engine mounts, tin, fan/alternator and ancillaries is pretty straightforward. CHEAP AUTO PARTS is home to the largest selection of auto parts on the internet. We are a discount auto parts retailer selling quality OEM and aftermarket parts. We strive for excellent customer service, because we value your business! All of our parts are priced to keep you on the road for LESS! FinditParts is an online truck parts marketplace for light, medium and heavy duty truck parts, browse by manufacturer here. Find your local O'Reilly location in California. We carry top brands like Mobil1, Castrol, Wix, Trico, Gates and Monroe and our professional parts people can provide the advice to help you keep your vehicle running right. Just make darn sure you take pictures and mark the alternator wires! The exhaust system turned out to be a bigger job than I originally anticipated. I squirted the nuts with WD- 4. I ate lunch. Personal Note #3 I found that instead of buying the . I didn't have the luxury of having one available so I just let them soak in WD- 4. I was successful at getting them all off without incident except for one, which snapped. It really didn't matter though because all of them were severely corroded and pitted so I decided from the get go that they would need to be replaced when the cylinder head work was performed. With the engine shroud removed, you now have a long block! It's puttin' it back together and having it run which is the tricky part. I won't get too specific about what comes off next and in what sequence. There are obviously several ways to do the same thing. The next parts that must to come off are the cam chain housings. These little suckers can be a pain in the butt. Calling them stubborn would be too nice. Let them soak in WD- 4. I found that it helped a bit. Be careful when doing this, the cam housing is made of aluminum, the camshafts are steel, if one of them binds as you are removing it don't be too rough, you could damage the softer aluminum housing. With the cam chains out of your way you can now remove the cylinder heads and cam housings from each bank as one unit. I found that this was the easiest way to do it. Personal Note #4 I discovered that you don't have to buy the Super Special 1. Porsche tool for removing the head stud nuts. A common Allen head socket on a drive extension worked like a champ. When you remove the head stud bolts, do it in an even, progressive manner. You don't want to possibly warp the cam housing. Once the cylinder heads have been removed you should be staring at the tops of your pistons! Remove the air deflectors and oil return tubes and bag 'em up. Using a soft mallet, gently tap on the base of the cylinders and they should slide right off without too much of a fight. I put rags underneath the exposed pistons to keep them from flopping around against the head studs and possibly damaging them. If you have an early engine, remove the oil sump plate cover, thermostat, breather housing and engine mounted oil cooler. Remember to take it slow and steady. As far as removing the pistons goes, the most important thing to remember is that when the piston wrist pin cir- clips come out of their groove, they can do so at Mach 6. Be careful! Use a hardwood dowel to drive the wrist pins out. You don't want to put a heck of allot of cross load on the connecting rods so don't spank them too hard! Mark the location of each piston and bag them. Now you can spit the case! Turn the engine on its side and remove the butt- load of nuts securing the case halves together, including the crankcase through- bolts. Don't forget the ones that sit behind the flywheel, they could be covered with gunk and overlooked. This next part is tricky to say the least! I used a soft mallet and a large screwdriver to . I did not force the screwdriver into the seam and . That will definitely damage the sealing surface. Rather, I used the mallet to get the case to start to separate and once I had a small gap going, I used the screwdriver to gently spread the halves. It takes quite a bit of jostling. Once it comes free, lift it away and take a beer break- -you'll need it. Now the crankshaft and connecting rods may be lifted away. To remove the oil pump and lay shaft you need to break or bend the small Lock- tabs that secure the pump to the case. Pull it all apart, bag and label everything. Mark all of the main components with their respective numbers. Congratulations! You have just completely torn apart a 9. Now you have to put it back together- -oh boy. Inspection. Inspection of components is where the expensive manuals you bought will come in handy. Understand that there are some parts that require special tools or professional equipment and expertise to properly inspect for wear and serviceability. Clean everything thoroughly. Depending on what you have discovered up to this point you can determine what work needs to be completed and which parts will need to be replaced. For instance, I found that the intermediate gear on my motor was quite worn. I decided it didn't make much sense to reinstall a part that was just marginal so I bought a new one. I did the same for the chain gears. There are many good Machine shops out there who specialize in Porsches. They can handle all of your cylinder head and balancing work. The bottom end of 3. My main bearings looked almost brand new (With 2. Some people use the 3. I personally disagree with that because although the main bearings looked great and the rod bearings looked ok, the lay shaft bearings were almost totally shot. They were worn into the bronze. Second point, by the time you've got the motor out of the car, disassemble and clean the top end, you've already done 8. Why not split the case and throw a new set of bearings in there. It's really not that much more work! I had my crankcase, cylinder heads, and cam housings Hot Tanked by the local NAPA store. If you take your parts somewhere to be hot tanked, just make sure they have a separate Hot Tank for aluminium parts. The Hot Tanks used for cast iron blocks will melt or damage aluminium parts. Range Rover 4. 0 4. Parts. Range. Rover P3. Parts. Parts From Other Vehicles or Common US Sources. Please email if you have any. Note: Prices on these pages were accurate when posted. Be. CMBody & Chassis Parts. Braking System. Climate Control. Cooling System. Cruise Control. Electrical. Engine Mechanical. Exhaust System. Filters. Fuel Delivery System. Fuel. Injection (EFI) System. Ignition. Manuals and Books. Radio. Scan Tools. Sound System. Steering. Suspension. Transfer Case. Transmission. Washer/Wiper System. Wheel Bearings. BECMCar Electronic. Services rebuilds BECMs on an exchange basis. New ones can. obtained through British Parts of. Utah for about $7. Body & Chassis Parts Range. Rover P3. 8ATailgate & Hood Struts. Tailgate Strut. Aftermarket replacements for the tailgate strut (ALR1. Auto. Parts Warehouse. Auto Parts Warehouse have a low cost non- locking. Grille: I discovered that the genuine radiator grille is now available from Atlantic British. A couple of years ago I purchased a comparable replacement. Donnelly (OE manufacturer) after being quoted nearly $7. The ersatz replacement cost around $2. Notwithstanding this new technology, the replacement. Have since. purchased a genuine parts replacement from British Parts of. Utah out in Utah for a price comparable to that of a. Magna- Donnelly replacement. British Parts of. Utah also have mirrors for other model Land Rovers in the. Wing/Fender: The easily- damaged front fender or wing is now available. Atlantic British, who have it in. Braking System Range Rover P3. A ABS Accumulator: Most suppliers do not seem to list this part (STC2. Auto. Parts Warehouse lists new units for $2. I recently (Nov 2. British Parts of. Utah for $2. 30!! In August 2. 01. 0 I found it at British Parts of. Utah for $1. 30. 0 including the accumulator which is normally about. Invasion Auto. Hollywood, CA apparently. Falcon Works in Arizona. John. Park wrote in to say the pump looks very identical to the one used in a. Jaguar XJ6 and in the Alpha Romeo Milano 3. Calipers & Caliper Repair Kits: When the calipers start leaking, the new ones (especially. Rovers North has them for about. Alternatively, you can easily rebuild them. I found one for the 4. Auto. Parts Warehouse(click on . The one for the front. STC1. 91. 9. I shopped around and found Atlantic British has them for $2. Pads: Part Numbers: Front STC3. Rear STC3. 68. 4. Dealer Price (Oct 2. Atlantic British. The lowest prices from Rover aftermarket specialists for. Atlantic British. Lockheed brand pads (made in the UK) for $4. However, Atlantic. British now (October 2. Lockheed. brand rear pads for only $3. If you want to try a real generic part (not really advisable when it. Wagner rear. found at Auto. Parts. GIANT. com for $2. Parking Brake Shoes: I have not seen these listed in mail order catalogs but Auto. Parts Warehouse. (click on . The stock front brake rotors are $8. Rovers North, but aftermarket units. The lowest prices. Front: Auto. Parts Warehouse. Atlantic. British has aftermarket front rotors for $5. Rear: Atlantic British. In October 2. 00. Alan. Rawson reported finding a company in Abilene, TX that. Hancock. Industries (http: //www. Alan a rebuilt AC clutch for $1. It turned out to be. HSE and slip the new one. AC charge- -it only took courage dealing with the. They sell a complete (rebuilt?) compressor w/clutch for $2. The parts had no written instructions since they are. AC shops, but John, in. Hancock rebuild shop, was extremely helpful in explaining. I did find a generic replacement for the clutch. I found aftermarket versions. Atlantic British. Auto. Parts Warehouse. Valeo brand) with fans for only $7. A/C Receiver/Drier: I found this item for $1. Atlantic British. If you wish to try a generic solution, the Ready. Aire 4. 08. 6 is listed for the 4. Climate Control Head Unit: The control panel and ECU that is the. I have searched. Expansion Valve: Until recently I was never able to locate a low cost source for this. I tried. Atlantic British. STC3. 25. 9) for $1. The lowest. cost I have seen for them to date (October 2. Auto. Parts Warehouse. The separate blend motor. Atlantic. British (STC3. You should also be able to use this part to. Unfortunately it is a more. Classsic version. In 2. 00. 8 I found it for as much as $4. I found the genuine part available at Atlantic British. British Parts of. Utah for $3. 50. The lowest cost supplier I could find for an aftermarket. British. Parts of Utah who has one for $3. The genuine part is. British. Parts of Utah (usually the cheapest source for genuine parts) for. Way Pressure Switch: This vital component (which attaches to the receiver/drier and makes. A/C problems. section) and the A/C blew hot air. I found you can now get a. Cooling System Range Rover P3. ABelt (Serpentine): The lowest price I have seen for the serpentine belt. Auto. Parts Warehouse . For 1. 99. 9- 0. 2. PQS1. 01, for which the lowest price. I have seen (November 2. Parts Warehouse. Belt Tensioner Assembly: This is a known weak point on the 4. The price of a genuine. Parts of Utah is now down to. November 2. 00. 8). Even better was a replacement. Partsamerica. com for $6. Atlantic British. A Gates. replacement part #2. Auto. Parts. GIANT. The lowest price I have ever seen (October 2. Partsamerica. com. Drive- Rite brand generic. This later top hose has a branch in it and is much. I found one of these at Auto. Parts Warehouse for $1. Atlantic. British has it for only $9. I recently found it at British Parts of. Utah: for $8. 2. Radiator: 9. Models: I found new OEM and aftermarket radiators for 9. PCC1. 06. 94. 0 for VIN numbers to WA4. Auto. Parts Warehouse. Atlantic. British now list them (November 2. The. price I have been able to find after searching high and low is. Parts of Utah for $3. Atlantic British has a replacement for $3. British Parts of. Utah has them for $3. After. searching many sources. November 2. 00. 8) I found the genuine part still costs $9. British Parts of. Utah. The best deal I can find for this part. Atlantic British. As of 2. 00. 8, there. A1 Cardone brand unit for $1. Partsamerica. com. Parts Warehouse has a replacement for $1. However surprisingly, the specialty Land Rover parts. As of. November 2. British Parts of. Utah who have water pumps for all. Water Pump Gasket: I found a British made generic replacement for this at Auto. Parts Warehouse. for only $6. Aftermarket versions are available at reasonable. Auto Parts Warehouse (click on . Even at aftermarket. Atlantic British. However, I recently. October 2. 00. 4) found. Auto Parts Warehouse. Rovers North has. The lowest price. I have found for new alternators is at British Parts of. AMR2. 93. 8 - - 1. Partsamerica. com. Worldwide brand remanufactured unit for $1. Auto. Parts. GIANT. I recently found (Novemner 2. Import. Parts Bin/Speedy Car Parts stock new. They also have the 1. Atlantic British. Bosch controlled engines (1. For the auxiliary headlights. H3 5. 5W bulb. Starter Motor: The costs of aftermarket and rebuilt starters for the 4. October 2. 00. 3). British Parts of. Utah has them for $3. The lowest. pricse I have seen for new starters. Atlantic. who have brand new ones for $1. Auto Parts Warehouse who have new ones for $1. Rebuilt. Bosch starters for the. Orange County Alternator are available from Auto. Parts. GIANT. com. Ampere Automotive brand rebuilt starters are available from Express. Autoparts. com. for $1. However I recently (August 2. Roverland Parts. has complete engines from crashed Rovers for bout $1,9. Complete from. plenum to oil pan, they are guaranteed against oil leaks and excessive. They perform the following. Test running the engine prior to dismantling the truck. Removing the oil pan. Cleaning the oil sump pickup. Checking the main bearings. Re- sealing the oil pan. Removing the valve covers, cleaning and inspecting the heads. Replacing and re- sealing the valve covers. Capping all of the air sensitive openings. Pressure washing and detailing the engine. Camshaft & Rocker Shaft Components: Auto. Parts Warehouse has camshafts for $2. Engine Long Block: Head Gaskets: The 4. I. still recall talking to an owner of a brand new 2. The good news is that replacements, made by. OEM supplier to Land Rover, are available for only $1. Auto. Parts Warehouse! They also have a complete set of all required. Head gaskets in all these sets are. Intake Manifold Gasket: This is an item that has had to be replaced innumerable times at. SE. I recently found out that Auto. Parts Warehouse. (click on ! Main and Rod Bearings: Aftermarket rod bearings are now available from Atlantic British. I found a British- made set of 4. Parts Warehouse. (click on . Their main bearings are. Timing Chain: An aftermarket timing chain is available from Atlantic British. Auto Parts Warehouse. The timing cover. This should last longer. British Parts of. Utah lists an aftermarket replacement for the Y pipe and cats. Auto Parts Warehouse lists the combined Y pipe and. Thelowest price I have seen to. Discount. Converters Ltd of Houston, Texas, which lists a 4. ROVqq. 09 for the 4. Mufflers, Center and Rear: (For full details on replacement of the center and rear mufflers. Center. Muffler: The genuine center muffler and associated tubing is available from British Parts of. Utah for $1. 85. One is now available from Atlantic. Atlantic British. I. have seen, including stainless steel replacements with lifetime. The lowest. price I have seen so far is for a replacement from Atlantic British. For these model years there were two rear mufflers. Alex. Schubow reports the genuine filter from the dealer cost him less. The 1. 99. 9 and later models with. Bosch intake system have a different- looking air cleaner housing, but. Fuel Filter: Genuine: The. British Parts of. Utah for $2. 8. Generic: FRAM part number is GS3. Same as for the later. Classics) and the Wix number is 3. A Bosch equivalent is available at the Auto. Parts Warehouse. (click on . The FRAM. filter is listed at Express. Autoparts. com. for $1. I found the FRAM one at partsamerica. Oil Filter: The Rover. The oil filter used on. Range Rovers; FRAM lists the PH1. I found. this one at partsamerica.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. Archives
January 2017
Categories |